HOME!

Ok, so quick update to at least finish off my trip although I will be talking to many of you in person about this soon.

Following Corbett National Park, where I went on two jeep safaris and an elephant safari, failed to see a tiger, although supposedly drove by, and felt the elephant tremble because one was nearby, our group took the train back to Delhi. I managed to repack while in Corbett with only a slight interuption by the monkeys who ripped my purse- ohh well! In Delhi, time flew by. We had an AMAZING Punjabi inspired lunch by a famous chef at Brown Sahib. Delicious. Multi-course fancy meal that made everyone much further appreciate Indian food :)! Didn't do much sightseeing although was fortunate enough to go to a Delhilite's house for dinner who was also the person Samia and I stayed at upon returning for our travels in India.

After our going away dinner with the group, Maresa, Katie, Steve, Samia and I took a car to Agra. Terrible driver. He did not know how to use the brake pedal and slammed it to the floor everytime a brake was needed- which was too often considering the traffic. We did however make it to Agra late in the evening to our hotel. We woke up and went to our rooftop where we saw the Taj Mahal through the smog. Beautiful. After breakfast we walked down and through. Beautiful. Breathtaking. I don't know what else to say! I can see why it is considered one of the wonders of the world. Men have a lot to live up to now! (Considering it was built for a wife, for those of you who don't know).

Afterwards, we went to the train station to find that our train was delayed for 12 hours. After several hours we arranged a car instead in order to gt to Jaipur. I was getting sick, but felt fine. It was just my voice that left me in Jaipur. While in the pink city we saw Amber Fort, a beautiful Mughal Empire structure and went outside of the city to ride camels in a nearby village. I also took advantage of the cheapest silver in the world.

From Jaipur we flew domestically to Goa after making it through the ridiculous amount of security checks. Goa was beautiful. The Mexico of India for Europeans and Russians. It was amazing. A great break of sun and beach before coming back to the northwest winter. We lived only a five minute leisurely walk to the Baga Beach. We failed to see the old Portugeuse colonial architecture up close, although did appreciate it from the car. However, the majority of our time was spent on the beach, and getting in last minute shopping. Awesome! Great way to conclude the trip! From there, we flew back to Delhi where I had a day, went to a famous kebab restaurant and enjoyed our friend's luxurious home.

Now I'm back and adjusting to the Western ways of life. Less chaotic, more schedules, technology, etc.

I am very fortunate and appreciative for all of my experiences and people I met during my travels and hope only the best for them, although I hope to see many again in the future if time and schedules permit!

Time is winding down...

Only another week at Sonapani in the hills! My roommates and I just took a nice leisurely walk to the Kilmora shop for scarves made locally, and enjoyed the sunset over the mountains as we were walking back. I'm going to Nainital this week to get souvenirs and see the lake. Then off to Corbett National Park to see the jungle and ride an elephant before getting back to Delhi. From there I'll go to Agra to see the Taj, head west to Jaipur and then fly south to Goa for a little R&R and beach time before heading back to the states. All in 3 weeks. Crazy! Then I'm home... exciting!! I'm looking forward to every minute. I don't know how much I'll be on the internet beforehand, so that's just a quick lowdown, and maybe I'll be able to update this in the meantime... no guarantees.

Kasialekh, Kumoani Wedding, Finals, Reetha

Well, I have been terrible about keeping this up lately! Not much time in between the homestays, and in between with a final, presentation and a nonworking internet modem, it makes it difficult! Ohhhh India. Anyway, what I've been up to...

Stayed at the Madhvi's again for our second homestay and work in Kasialekh. Surveys went well and I am getting really good information! Two of the girls from the program I am staying with, Sam and Nikki, got sick and had to go back. Amma, the grandmother of our household, her nephew was getting married just up the hill and I ate dinner, breakfast and lunch at the groom's house! I would have gotten henna again, but realized I had lots to do. Their was lots of dancing, tea, great food, and a live band. Such a cool experience! We followed the groom up the valley to the road where he arrived on horseback to catch his car to the bride's house before going to the temple. I was offered a spot on the bus to go, but declined.

Upon returning to Sonapani, I booked my tickets and hotels for my travel after the program. I will go to Agra to see the Taj, Jaipur in Ragasthan, then Goa for some R&R before my journey back to the states! I also managed to write my final paper, bake cookies and bread, and do a final presentation. Joyous...

This week's homestay was in the Reetha area, much closer, where more fieldwork was conducted. It's citrus season in the hills and at many villager's houses they had orange trees that were offered with chai at their homes! Very yummy. I was also able to milk the cow at my house!

Walking back tonight, the sunset was gorgeous. There were just enough whispy clouds over the mountains that when the sun was setting, the sky was illuminated pink along with the very clear view of the Himalaya. I am spoiled.

Just have to make a final presentation for CHIRAG after a few meetings and then we will be pack and be off to Corbett National Park! This last month is going to fly by, but I'm ready for it! Things are getting a bit monotonous.

Mukteschwar & Lall's

Today was a perfect way to start the weekend. Yesterday, we had class, and then a guest lecture by Dr. Pathak and a slide show presentation of the Himalaya from Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India and Tibet. Beautiful pictures and it reminded me of trekking despite the wide cultural variations across the region. Very beautiful though! Nevertheless, today Jill and I walked to Mukteschwar (about an hour and a half walk uphill) where we bought random chocolate treats (I want to make cookies!) and a bandanna type thing and soap. We intended to get lunch but weren't hungry. We figured we could pick up a samosa at a shop on the walk home. On our way back, on the trail we saw a troop of black faced monkeys! Lugars I think they are called. Anyway, there were about 20 of them, adults and babies! We stood for about a half an hour just watching them. On our way back, we were picked up by Rebecca in a car who was heading back to Sonapani (although we were only about a half an hour walk away) and jumped in. On the trail to Sonapani, we saw the students who were going to the Lall's (the founders and creators of CHIRAG) and were invited to come because not enough people signed up. So we turned around and hoped back in the same car we had just gotten out of. I joined the group and we spent the afternoon chatting with Lakshmi and Kanai over tea, cake and treats. Wonderful! They are such interesting people! Anyway, I just got back, am going to do some reading and then enjoy dinner and hopefully a movie tonight. Good life :)

Homestay & Fieldwork

I spent the last two nights and three days in the Kasialekh area, staying in Sunkiya and visiting homes and interviewing in Buribana. It was great! A very new experience, and I am excited that we will be staying with the same family next week. The rainy/misty weather today however, made walking along the first village trails between houses, rather than the main concrete village trail, slippery. Other than that, I got a lot of good interviews and information for my internship project. The house we, myself, Nikki, Sam and Shruti, stayed at, The Madhvi's, was a typical village home, cows and kitchen downstairs, unattached bathroom, lots of sitting outdoor space and corn drying out on the roof. I tried to make chapatti, but failed. It is a lot harder than it looks! Or I just didn't get the hang of it. We had simple meals, chapatti and a vegetable for breakfast, packed it to go for lunch, and more chapatti and another vegetable for dinner. All of course accompanied by tea, in addition to tea at interviewees homes throughout the day. I am happy that my questionnaire is just about agricultural insurance and nothing personal as some other people's project questions entail.

Update

One stop shop for Pictures from traveling
Check out my collages there! I love them :) I want to make a book when I get back!

On another note: went climbing today and cleaned and set some great bouldering routes!

I register tonight! Looks like I will be taking a guitar class, an environmental studies class, and my task force regarding political participation in the EU.

I start my internship more aggressively this week. No more meetings to set up meetings, although I am sure that will happen (much of my past week). I have prepared a survey for farmers, and am meeting the the Block Development Officer tomorrow for questions (essentially a city council member/governor). I also will be doing a homestay Wed-Fri for the next three weeks in order to complete my fieldwork with an interpreter. Eeek! I'm a bit nervous since I have never done one before, although am looking forward to it in some respects.

Subadra Channa, a former Fullbright professor is visiting this week and will be giving a guest lecture. Should be good! Also this upcoming weekend, Shekar Pathak, known as the "encyclopedia of Uttarakhand" will be coming, in addition to a cultural group (whatever that means! I'll find out!)

We had a late Halloween celebration the other night where we carved pumpkins and apple bobbed! I put an OM symbol in my pumpkin and failed at the apple bobbing. I had never done it before! It was such a pleasant surprise! I was reminded that I will be missing Thanksgiving, which I am rather disappointed about :( Particularly because we will be on our homestay. Talk about being as far removed from my family and even the familiar on a holiday!

Not much time left at Sonapani, due to the homestays, and we will be heading out to Corbett National Park in the beginning of December. I don't mind the idea of this last month going by fast, although no worries, I am enjoying it!

Halloween Weekend

So this weekend we went on a field trip! Such an eventful weekend, although it was great to get away nonetheless. First, we went just outside of Almora to go to Panchuchuli, a women’s weaving center where we saw the whole process of imported Tibetan pashmina wool being made into scarves, shawls, etc. The cleaning, the spinning, the weaving; all by hand. Afterwards, we continued up north to Kausani where Lakshmi Ashram is, an all girls Gandhian basic education boarding school. The hotel we stayed at had a beautiful view of the mountains we see from Sonapani, except two hours closer. Breathtaking. The following day we went to Lakshmi Ashram and did morning chores with the girls. I helped sort rice. I never felt so intimate with rice before. Then we had down time when they had free time or shower time and then it was lunch. Maresa and I walked around and were guided by one of the girls. She turned out to be a great photographer too! After lunch, we had a question and answer time with the students and then more down time while they had class. It was then time for performances where we sang a few songs, and were presented with various plays, songs and dances from the Lakshmi girls. Then it was a late dinner and back to our hotel! After a lazy morning, where I got a great hand spun and hand woven sweater, we headed to Jageshwar, a Hindu religious pilgrimage site. We arrived just in time to go to a temple near our hotel before dark. The holy forest was beautiful and reminded me a lot of the northwest! In the morning we walked around some more and saw the archeological museum before heading to Almora for lunch, then getting back to Sonapani in the evening. It was a spectacular weekend! Very much different than any Halloween I have ever experienced! Ohh and I got through a lot of the book I’m reading; The God of Small Things.

This week we are down to class twice a week, and bumping up our time in our internship. My primary internship is helping develop an agricultural insurance scheme that can be supplemental to the present government insurance scheme after identifying gaps, etc. I am likely going to Almora early in the week for a meeting. Exciting! My secondary internship will be interviewing individuals in the community regarding perceptions of community leadership, from either side of the power spectrum. Should be interesting! I will continue my volunteer work at the Simayal school, Reetha campus, CHIRAG farm and school.

Pictures
Panchachuli
Kausani
Lakshmi Ashram
Jageschwar

Walk to Almora

This weekend as a procrastination tool, I walked to Almora, the town beneath the stretch of the Garhwal Himalaya that we have a view of from Sonapani. It's great, there is actually a trail that goes all the way from the train station down Kathogadam to Almora. It passes nearby Sonapani and we were easily able to find it and verify our destination with people we saw along the trail. "Namaste, Almora? Dhanyavad." Moving slowly and taking breaks, Brittany and I covered the 15km in just under 4 hours. It was such a beautiful walk! We crossed a bridge over the Kosi River, which had huge rocks that made me wish it was summer and I could hang out on by the river. We walked through forest, and had a drastic change of landscape to plain grassy fields, and different types of vegetation and even cacti! We were also invited in for chai by some locals in a small village just before Almora. It was a There was a conference going on so the directors of our program were in town and I was able to catch a ride back in the evening. While in town I did manage to get some momos and naan, and a scarf!

Pictures

Diwali

The 17th of October is the Indian holiday of Diwali, although we celebrated on the 16th because our hosts at Sonapani would be taking their kids to Ashish’s parents since the holiday is typically celebrated with one’s family. Diwali reminds me of a combination of the Fourth of July and Christmas. It is considered a winter holiday but it is known for its fireworks. It celebrates lightness overcoming dark. A few of us borrowed sarees from Deepa to wear for the occasion. She even offered jewelry to complete the outfit! It was great! Sarees are so beautiful, but I wouldn’t want to buy one because I have no idea when else I would wear it, so it was perfect! The cooks surprised us with apple pie and pizza! There was lasagna that other people were really excited about, but I didn’t partake in the joy. The pie on the other hand, ohhh amazing! It was also David’s birthday so we have all the more reason to celebrate!

We are getting midterms this week to conclude the half of our course which was meant to be “intensive,” although I didn’t think of it as such. I’m walking to Almora for a day trip tomorrow! I have really been enjoying volunteering teaching English, especially to the Reetha staff because it more structured whereas with the government school children we are really on our own to come up with what to do for an hour with them. The farm is good! Just simple tasks, but it is nice to get outdoors, and is cool to learn about the region’s crops, etc. The weekend after this we will be taking a trip to Lakshmi Ashram where our professor, Rebecca, has based her academic research from. There are also famous religious pilgrimage sights for Hindus nearby that we will visit as well! Should be a good weekend!

Pictures!

So I have slowly been trying to upload pictures since Thailand, so here they are, or at least some of them:

Bangkok
Koh Kradan
Kathmandu
Trekking in Nepal

Delhi
Salam Baralak Trust Walk
Lotus Temple
Gurudwara Bangla Sahib
Gandhi Museum
Bus Tour

En Route to Sonapani (not a lot of pictures because it is apparently illegal to take pictures in the railway station)

Uttarakhand
Sonapani
Walk to CHIRAG in the Uttarakhand hills
CHIRAG
CHIRAG School
Gargoan village
Shitla Nature Walk
Kitori Climbing: where we are route setting at getting first ascents in the Himalaya!
Kasai Lake
Aarohi
Diwali

Be Patient & Flexible

I consider myself a patient and flexible person. However, scheduling in India is pointless. Everything is always changing! For instance, a guest speaker, Radha (Behn) Bhatt, a devote Gandhian activist in her eighties, was scheduled to speak in class on Wednesday. Then it was Tuesday. She came on Monday, which was our weekend. We had several articles to read in preparation. It’s also frustrating because it is difficult to get alone time because everyone is always around Sonapani, and once you leave, there isn’t terribly much around, and certainly not a lot to do. I think the climbing area nearby is going to be a necessary getaway. Additionally, our week was packed from morning to night with activities: go to Aarohi to hear the governor speak; visit the Kilmora Shop and see how apricot oil is made; visit the weaving center; visit a women’s self help group, get invited to see a Ram Lela performance, despite it being after Deshera and run late and miss the doctor at the hospital for a tour; spend a lot of time in Jeeps traveling down windy hill roads; come home to movies every night for the ‘film festival’ and have dinner pushed back. Our group was looking forward to the time off this weekend. Also, it took our cabin three weeks to get internet since arriving. Within that time it was difficult to borrow people’s computers, and my phone ran out of minutes, and the order was delayed a week to top up. I think what’s frustrating is that you are really forced to rely on other people here whereas I typically like to get things done myself, and find myself capable of doing so. Also, we ordered minutes to recharge our SIM cards. Then we got phone cards. Things are just silly, so often.

I did however start my volunteer projects of teaching English to both the government school children in Simayal as well as the staff at Rita. It’s going to be a new experience! Especially with the language barrier, it’s hard to explain why something the way it is in the language they are trying to learn. It will be much better, at least at Rita when we get the Hindi/English books which will have the Devanagari as well as English so we can both understand whats going on! At the school, there are English books, however they are terrible teaching tools. It’ll get better as time goes on though, it was only day one!

Diwali is on the 17th and we have the day off from class! We will be lighting of fireworks in order to celebrate :)! I'm excited!

Uttarakhand

So I have made it to Sonapani! After the overnight trainride, our group took a 2 ½ hour jeep ride, where a tea stop was made halfway, to a dirt road where we walked 20 minutes to our new residence for the next ten weeks! The weather was beautiful, and the Gharwal Himalaya with its snowtopped peaks was clearly visable to our north. Gorgeous! I am living in a brick cabin with stone floors that has a bathroom and armoir with two roommates, Maresa and Brittany. The landscaping here is beautiful! There are so many colorful flowers. Near the entrance there is an herb garden within the letters “Sonapani;” I love that as an idea. There is a common area towards the top where we eat our meals, with the cabins terraced beneath. It’s great! Since arriving and after settling in, we have had the opportunity to walk to a nearby store where chips, biscuits and other random things are sold as well as visiting CHIRAG, the non governmental organization where we will have our internships based out of, and use their facility for our classes. I am really excited about the group that is here, 18 girls, 2 boys, because everyone seems to be so easy going! We have had some abrupt changes to scheduling, and everyone has been patient without unnecessary complaints. This week’s schedule is a bit off, but typically I will be having my Work, Gender and Environment class on Tuesday, Wednesday. Thursday will be filled with my internship. Friday and Saturday is my Political Economy of Indian Development class. Afternoons will be opportunities to volunteer. Sunday, Monday freetime! That’s for this month… then I will drop to classes twice a week in November, and increase time in my internship.

I started classes on Thursday. CHIRAG is an hour and fifteen minute walk from Sonapani, about 8k (between 4 and 5 miles). It’s very relaxing, but now I can say that I walked uphill both ways to get to school! Our first Political Economy class was held in one of CHIRAG’s rooms, a clean space that we took our shoes off before entering, and sat on the floor on mats. Afterwords, we had an introduction to CHIRAG where we were able to visit the garden, learn about current projects they are involved in. Afterwards, we visited the school, preschool through third grade, and saw a powerpoint about the objectives and practices within their education program. I walked back watching the sunset, and made it back for nearly perfect timing for dinner! My appetite is still huge from Nepal! I did lose 10lbs so I may come back the same size because the food here is delicious. I can’t wait to help out in the kitchen, and make a recipe book!
Friday was a tour of nearby villages. Radha and Pan were our tourguides of Gargoan. We walked for three hours around the village and saw the water shed, water pump, where hydroelectricity is generated, an oak tree plantation, the Grand Panchayat building and visited a government school that was in session. It was a small school house, with only two rooms, and office, and a kitchen. Substantial enough for the forty chilren that were there, only four of which who were girls. This was the first of several village tours we will be doing in areas where CHIRAG is working. I am just excited to start our internship, although we won’t be until next week or so. I have signed up as a volunteer to teach English to both employees of a neighboring organization and CHIRAG school children. I will also volunteer in the school with arts and crafts and environmetal activities for their students, preschool through the third grade. The school is rather impressive for being open only three years, and they practice very encouraging teaching methods. Additionally, over half their students are female, a drastic difference from the school in Gargoan. I also intend to volunteer on the organic farm on a weekly basis as well! It is weird how isolated I am and I am just looking to fill my schedule with as much as I can so I don’t find myself just sitting around.

Our weekends are Sunday, Monday. On Sunday, Maresa and I decided to walk to Mukteshwar, about 8k, despite the light rain. We came back just before dark, and absolutely soaked. However, we did find a great bazaar that will be good to come back to when it’s not raining because things were tarped up. Additionally, there were more little stores with a bigger variety of snacks! Monday, a group of nine of us decided to go to Nainital and took one Jeep that fit eleven people! It was a bit miserable because it was raining, but it was good to see, and I certainly want to go back! Nainital is a “honeymoon destination” of India. There was a lake, and several Western friendly shops. The rain here is very unusual. As a matter of fact, villagers contribute it directly to climate change because rains have never been this late in the year by memory accounts; there is not historical weather data on the region. It is also potentially problematic because since it is after the monsoon, many deveploment projects have begun, and the rains could implicate projects due to landslides among other things.

Tuesday was our first Work, Gender and Environment class. Due to the weather, the rain has made the trail to exit Sonapani very muddy, and several students are not prepared with raingear, class was held in the common area at Sonapani. I anticipate that I will enjoy the other course more, although this one will relate very well to our intenships, and be very applicable for when we do homestays. It’s great to be in the context of what we are learning about, rather than learning about it abstractly. This will be closer to a normal week too! Rain cleared over the course of the afternoon to expose the Himalaya just before sunset. There is a small cluster of mountains, near the height of Rainier, to the left that look dwarfed in comparison to these, 6500m+. So amazing to look out to!

Thursday after going to a festival/meeting in Aarohi, Brittany and I went with Vinode, one of the cooks, to a climbing area just 20 minutes away from Sonapani. It techically is not a climbing area yet, although there is so much potential for sport, trad and bouldering! Vinode would just go there to practice rappelling. However, hopefully we can go to a van panchayat (forest council) meeting, and ask about putting in bolts for top anchors since the area is within panchayat jurisdiction. If not, there are suitable trees that you can use to build anchors. We rapped down and sent a few first ascents in the Himalaya. No big deal… ☺ It actually sounds a lot cooler than what we did, only 5.9 max, but we didn’t have much time. We got distracted roaming around and admiring what we found and were surrounded by! That evening was also the first night of a film festival put together for our program by an Indian film director. It was a short documentary about violence between India and Pakistan, although the hour presentation beforehand was very informative about Indian history, and how the films he has chosen to present fall into the theme.

After class today, a group of us interested in volunteering at a government school nearer to Rita, went to set up a schedule. It was so great! After figuring out our schedule with the school teacher, we introduced ourselves to the 22 students ranging from preschool to fifth grade, and then took turns sharing songs and dances until we needed to leave. I am so excited to teach English, but more importantly interact with the children.

All the cabins besides mine has gotten internet, so I have been terribly slow about posting things since I haven’t had access to the internet since arriving in India. A bit surprising! Nevertheless, I am in the rural hills, and just happy that I will be able to have access in the upcoming weeks. I have a phone as well! It’s different after not using one at all for over two months, but its good to feel that I at least have the option to be in contact/contacted with/by people.

I will try and post pictures as soon as I can although it will not be many due to the slow and moderately inconsistent internet situation. I'll try to so I can let you see highlights!

Delhi!

Arriving in Delhi, for the second time, was so much less hectic during the day! Also, it was pretty nice to be upgraded to first class randomly, although I felt it was unneccesary and certainly did not need all the space, although the in flight meal options were better. Rebecca, the professor for the quarter, met us- I saw Brittany and her friend, Mary, at the Kathmandu airport, and we were on the same flight- and got us a taxi to the YWCA. After dropping our bags and getting a brief information lowdown from Keith, a program coordinator/director, the three of us went to Khan Market via rickshaw- Indians are crazy drivers as well- to get food at the Turtle Cafe and go to Fabindia to get some chemises (long tunics). Success! Also, for lunch Brittany and I split a piece of the most delicious piece of chocolate cake. I don’t know if it was post trek cravings, but it certainly fulfilled my sweet tooth! We also went to Cottage Emporium to a state store where I got a beautiful Punjab dupatta (long scarf) after failing to find somewhere for Mary to get her nose pierced. Coming back it was interesting to see people arriving from various places, many students in the program have traveled before the program, but since Delhi is only 30 min different from Nepal, I am on schedule as far as time goes, but felt terrible when I saw people arriving who hadn’t slept for way too long! Unpacking and setting aside things I need to send home, I wrapped things in plastic bags since they will be sent via sea.
Friday morning I woke up early, 6, and found an Indian Times at my door, and after getting dressed in my new purchases, went downstairs to wait for breakfast and read. The day was pretty slow going since many students had to register because they were given one year visas, rather than six months ones, while the rest of us got another information dump and the opportunity to go shop before and after lunch. I was happy that I did not have to sit in an AC waiting room for up to 6 hours as some of my classmates needed to. I did end up purchasing a few more things to wear in the hills at the Tibetan Market, we are warned about the conservativeness in the region, although a search for wi-fi at Connaught Place was unsuccessful. Lunch and dinner was the same rice, chapatis, tofu, veggie, daal at the YWCA. After dinner I stayed up and chatted with Nikki and Sam before we decided it was bedtime. I cannot help but think of arriving at Sonapani because it will be so nice to settle down somewhere finally! Being on the move for two months is difficult and was certainly a new experience that is good to know that I am capable of, although I can’t say that I’m particularly the fondest of. It’s been different the past two days being taken care of, kind of, we are on a loose leash for sure, but I am not having to deal with logistics myself that I have gotten so use to doing! As a result, I feel like there is a lot of wasted time and things are moving slowly, although I do understand that people are jetlagged and why we are easing into things, but it’s just not what I’m used to yet! India time, everything takes time.

Saturday morning after breakfast we went to the Delhi Railyway Station to meet our tour guides from the Salaam Baralak Trust for a City Walk. The NGO helps to provide future opportunuties for street children in Delhi by offering “contact points” for medical needs, and educational opprtunities. It was very enlightening to the problem, as well as what these children do. One of our tour guides, presently my age, had run away from home at the age of eight and lived on the streets for seven years. In addition to telling us about his experience, we were able to see two locations of “contact points” where people from the organization provide a space to play games, build trust with peers, as well as be around the positive influence of the NGO. Afterwards, we walked through the Paharganj where we then finished our tour, had lunch, and then broke off to get errands done, go shopping, etc. After getting passport photos and a copy of my passport/visa for a phone application, myself, Nikki, Sam and Chelsea went to the National Museum where we were able to get a student discount and pay 1 rupee rather than 300 and see artwork, textiles, as well as Indian maritime heritage in their galleries. It was a little disappointing because many exhibits were under renovation or closed. Nevertheless, afterwords, we took rickshaw to a southern area of Delhi to see the Lotus Temple, or Baha’I House of Worship. We arrived just as the sun was setting. The building reminded me of the Opera House in Sydney. After checking our shoes, we went inside, where unfortunately pictures were not allowed, because although the inside was simple, it was stunning. While leaving, lights were turned on which illuminated the buildings interesting curvature. We were late to dinner in CP at Saravana Bhavan with everyone from our program because it took a while to find a rickshaw, although somehow we managed to order last, but get our food first. No complaints there, I was hungry! Afterwards, we all walked back and I felt exhausted, and went to bed.

Sunday morning after breakfast, Maresa, Brittany and I went to the Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, the primary place of worship for Sikhs in Delhi. 10,000-20,000 people visit daily. We were fortunate enough to see the kitchen where chapatis were made by volunteers and go on a tour of the temple after washing our hands and feet, of course, in the large pool on the side. We were invited to come and make chapatis tomorrow which we are planning on doing! It was very cool to experience, especially having read an ethnopgraphy on Sikhs just last year. Then, meeting up with our group we went to the Gandhi Smriti Museum via tour bus. It had many digital displays in order to display his life as well as many pictures and quotes. The building it was at was actually were he was shot. In the back courtyard was a memorial marking the place of his death. It was much different than I expected; I had thought it was in a street or something because of the number of people around. We then had another South Indian meal for lunch and then headed to Bhagwan Mahavir, a temple of the Jain religion on a highpoint of Delhi. From there, we were able to see a tower, that truthfully I could not hear the significance of. We then went to the self employed women’s association (SEWA) Mahila Handicrafts Bazaar. It is a bazaar that was running for only 4 Sundays, and we attended the last one. Anything purchased here directly benefitted the women who made and marketed their goods. I found a painting and earrings for myself! Getting back to the YWCA, I recruited a couple people to go to the Sacred Heart Cathedral just down the road from where we were staying. It was a pretty church, but nothing particularly spectacular.

The following day, we were fortunate enough to have a guest lecture by Dr. Shekhar Pathak serving as an introduction to Uttarakhand, the region where we will be living and working for the next three months. Then, we will be receiving our syllabi for the quarter before packing up to head up north via train! So excited ☺!

Trekking in Nepal!

So of course it is good to have a plan, but I ended up changing it rather substancially because I was making such good time and was not feeling the affects of altitude thanks to the prescription from Dr. Mendery. I trekked not only to Everst Base Camp, went up to Kala Pattar, then went over Cho La Pass to Gyoko, then hiked up to Gyoko Ri, another good Himilayan Panoramic viewpoint. Brief rundown of what I actually did including heights and times:

Tues 9/8 (1): Fly Kathmandu to Lukla(2840m/9317ft). Trek to Namche(3440m/11,286ft) 10h
Wed 9/9 (2): Acclimization day in Namche
Thurs 9/10 (3): Trek to Tengboche (3860m/12664ft) 4h30m
Fri 9/11 (4): Trek to Dingboche (4410m/14468ft) 4h
Sat 9/12 (5): Acclimization day in Dingboche; Hike Chhukung (4600m/15124ft) 1h30m roundtrip
Sun 9/13 (6): Trek to Lobuche (4910m/16109ft) 3h45m *see body wrapped in a blue tarp tied with rope being carried down on a ladder that was brought down by an avalanche (climber from last season)
Mon 9/14 (7): Trek to Gorak Shep (5180m/16863ft) 2h; Trek to mid Base Camp (5364m/17598ft) 1h15m; Trek to Everst Base Camp with expedition 30m; Trek to Gorak Shep 1h35m *see 4 avalanches!
Tues 9/15 (8): Hike to Kala Pattar (5550m/18208ft) 1h40m up, 40m down
Wed 9/16 (9): Trek to Dzonglha (4830m/15846ft) 3h
Thus 9/17 (10): Trek over Cho La Pass (5368m/17600ft) to Thangnang (4700m/15419ft) 4h50m; Trek to Gyoko (4790m/15715ft) 2h
Fri 9/18 (11): Hike to GyokoRi (5483m/17988ft) 1h45m up, 1h down; Trek to Dhole (4110m/13484ft) 3h45m *begin trek down & runny nose*
Sat 9/19 (12): Trek to Khumjung (3780m/12401ft) 3hr30m; Trek to Namche 1h
Sun 9/20 (13): Trek to Phakding (2610m/8563ft) 3h30m
Mon 9/21 (14): Trek to Lukla 2h30m
Tues 9/22 (15): Fly back to Kathmandu!

Teas included: Black, ginger, mint, nepali masala, tibetan tea
Breakfasts included: tibetan bread with peanut butter and/or honey, vegetable hasbrown
Lunches/dinners included: vegetable fried rice, vegetable fried noodle, sherpa soup, potato soup, potato/onion/veg pizza, Daal Bath curry, vegetable steamed momos, garlic soup, vegetable fried spaghetti, rara noodle soup
Snacks on the trail included: nature valley oats and honey granola bars, RJs raspberry licorice from NZ, sour patch kids, a few clif bars, a chocolate bar, dried prunes and apricots, snickers bar, peanut cookies, cashews, saltines!

Card games learned: chapati (like the food), lucha (awesome austrailian game I can't remember quite all the rules!), slam (similiar to speed)

Other games played: chess, gin, rummy, crazy eights, uno
Books I read: Into the Void, Into Thin Air, The Law of Similiars, studied Hindi

Notable people: 3 Nepalis I trekked with day 1 to Namche and helped me find a place to stay; Jounralist Kaci Christian who insisted I stick with the Aussis; Austrailian guided group of 7 that I met in Tengboche and was on the same schedule until Gorak Shep; UK Alex and his guide Harry who I met in Tengboche and met up with again in Gorak Shep to go over Cho La Pass; 2 Germans hiked with to Gyoko;

Exciting news: Saw Brittany, girl from UW program in India, in Namche!

Weight of pack: 17kg/38lbs (approx including water and base weight taken from airport scale) although this decreased as the trek went on as I ate my snacks!

Lukla-Namche Bazar

So this will certainly be the most detailed blog entry of my trek to Everest Base Camp because I have internet! So here it goes:

I was up at 5:00 in order to finish my last minute packing because I need to be at the airport by 5:45 for my 6:15 flight. So early! I also went to bed late because I was just making sure everything was in order. Shangri-la, where I stayed in Kathmandu, called me a taxi and I was off to the airport. I checked in, paid my fuel surcharge fee, and waited to board my little 20 passengerish plane. I was so tired! I did finish my bagel I brought for breakfast on the plane. The landing was everything I expected, abrupt, but not necessarily scary by any means. I got off and was hasseled for a guide or porter. I am not going to get one until higher elevations or unless I do not feel comfortable trekking alone. However, once I was on my way, I met two Nepalese guys who were headed to Namche. I figured I may as well go that far, because this will be the only opportunity to gain as much elevation as I did (nearly 3000ft for the day!) I didn't know how far I was going, but decided to stick with them at least to walk with people. We took several rest break, especially towards the end of the day, and also found one of the boys' brothers on the trail. I stopped for tea once, but pretty much just snacked on a clif bar, nature valley bar, and some sweets. The weather was dry, with only about an hour gap where it lightly rained. This was definately going to be my longest day of hiking (10hours), and I plan from now on to definately stop for meals more consistently. Once arriving at Namche, it was cloudy in the hills so unfortunately you could not see Everest. The older brother stopped by where he was staying, we went in for tea and noodles, and then he took me to a place to stay. It was so great! I really hardley needed to arrange anything. Exhausted, I unpacked my things, looked at a map to plan my trek, and passed out.

The following morning I woke up at 9am to a knock on my door, the brother had come to make sure I didn't have a headache and was feeling alright. I feel absolutely fine. I can tell that the rest of the trek (obviously) will be much slower, not only to altitude, but also the terrain is much steeper. I walked down into town on my way to a bakery and internet cafe and saw Brittany! A girl from my program. Turns out we will likely be at base camp the same time. They are taking a different route or else I would have gone with them, plus I need this acclimation day.

My plan, that I will let you know how it goes is as follows: I have the extra two days for acclimitation because I will likely spend an extra night somewhere on the way up, but am not sure where that will be yet.

9th: Namche (3,440m, 11,286ft)
10th: Tengboche (3,860m; 12,664ft) or Pangboche (4,010m; 13,156ft)
11th: Periche (4,240m; 13,911ft)
12th: Thokla (Dughla) (4,620m; 15,157ft)
13th: Lobuche (4,910m; 16,109ft)
14th: Gorak Shep (5,140m; 16,863ft)
15th: Everest Base Camp (5,364m; 17,598ft)
16th: Kala Pattha
17th: Lobuche
18th: Periche
19th: Pangboche/Debouche/Tengboche
20th: Namche
21st:
22nd:
23rd: Fly out of Lukla at 7am!

Kathmandu!

Arriving in Kathmandu, I walked off the plane into the small Kathmandu International Airport. I filled out my swine flu declaration, passed the guard and found my on arrival visa application, photo booth, and arrival card. I then stood in line for about a half hour, was granted a visa, and then found my bag! The place I’m staying, the Shangri-La Guesthouse in Thamel, was there with a sign holding my name! I was so happy to not have to grab a random taxi like I did in Bangkok. They 3 guys were so welcoming, and excited I chose to stay with them. It’s the end of the monsoon season still technically, so it’s a bit slower, but still touristy. It was lightly raining when I arrived. They wanted to help me in anyway their could always offering suggestions, although many I didn’t need. They were like secret salespeople that were awesome to talk to, but would just slip those types of salespitches sometimes. I dropped off my bag, was upgraded my room, and decided to walk around. I needed a map. I wanted to exchange money too, but I forgot my travelers checks, but wasn’t too worried because I had changed some money at the airport from my extra baht from Thailand. It was sprinkling, so they dirt/concrete block road was muddy, and navigating scooters, bikes, cars,carts and people was a little difficult sometimes. Stores with housing above them lined the streets. I can’t wait to come back and shop. I find a map! I find three girls from Israel who had been here for a couple weeks and were very helpful in getting me to the exact store I wanted and where things were around the city. I met another guy who was about my age who was trekking later than I am, but was helpful about what to do about booking my flights. I wander my way back to find the owner and friends upstiars hanging out on the balcony. One of them played guitar after a little bit, we snacked on fries and chicken, and since I didn’t eat dinner, I got fried rice. Tired from the nightbefore, I retired to bed after unpacking my bags so things could decompress a bit.

I woke up at 7 and looked into booking my flight for tomorrow, I will have to call. I go upstairs and have some Nepalese Tea and listen to another guy, this one who is in a band and plays in a band and teaches students, plays. Great way to start the morning! I shower, book a flight, and write this before I plan to walk around the city.

I will exchange my money for my trek, get some goodies that I will send in a care package home later, and head back to meet the guitar player who is going to motor bike me around the city to show me some of the touristy attractions of Kathmandu, as well as places that are wonderful and known my Nepalese, but not advertised by agencies or the government, and loved. Afterwards I'll pack and sort what I am going to have stored here and make sure the owners can arrange hotel transport. We'll go to an area a 15 minute walk away for a party because a festival has recently ended here. Great way to unwind and experience Nepalese city life before heading into the mountains!

Probably no pictures until I'm in India, but I may try another upload again before I leave Nepal!

Domestic South East Asian Travel

The first leg of travel happened the day before but included a longtail and mini bus to get to Pak Meng. I still needed to get from Pak Meng to the Krabi airport in order to fly to Bangkok, and then off towards Kathmandu after a layover in Mumbai. I needed to take a mini bus to the Trang bus station, and they leave about every hour or hour and a half. I found out how scheduling works while I was waiting a half an hour after my 10 minute walk from where I stayed for the night. A mini bus driver, of an older 12-16 person Toyota van, will arrive, and write on a chalkboard his “bus number” and when he is going to leave. Then people wait. As the rain started right after my arrival to the undercover bus stop, I was really happy I was leaving and I feel like I had perfect timing for weather while on the coast. Unlike when I got to Trang on my way out to Koh Kradan, I was able to stay on the mini bus I took from Pak Meng and was dropped off at the main Trang bus station. As a result, I was fortunate enough to avoid tuk tuk ride in the rain! Once I arrived at the bus station, I again only had to wait a half an hour. Awesome! I had allotted myself up to an hour and a half wait at each of these transfer stations, for a worse case scenario, so it looks like I will just sit around at the airport for a little longer. Not a bad alternative. This bus was much more full than the one I took before. It also leaked. Granted it was raining, but the seat next to me had a continuous drip for over two hours. Once I arrived in Krabi, I grabbed some chicken and sticky rice and was giventhe option to take a motor bike or a taxi to get to the airport. The rain had stopped and I opted for the motorbike because I had not ridden one yet. I realized on the way to the airport, probably not the safest decision. The roads were wet, and we cruised along at between 60-70km/hr, my 21kg bag on my back, I leaned forward evertime we went up a hill to keep a decent center, without a helmet. No worries, the driver had one though. Arriving at the airport, check in for my flight had just started. Not bad! I thought I was going to have a terribly long wait in between flights at the Bangkok airport, but after dropping off a letter in the mail, which I got to the post office 15 minutes before it closed , I only had half an hour to wait before check in. Then I watched a movie! Got to kill time somehow! Getting into the terminal with my layover in Mumbai I witnessed and was subjected to the most intesive airport security. Although I already went through a metal detector and had my bag searched to get into the international terminal, in order to get to my gate, everyone’s bag was checked, and detected with a wand. Every passenger. It was quite surprising. What could we obtain in the 50 feet we walked?! Although, I do understand it is double checking in case something harmful was missed, but still, it was a new experience for sure. Once I arrived in Mumbai, it thoroughly confused people that I had an Indian visa, although I was just flying through this time. It seemed like airports operated all night because I got to where I’d be able to go through security when I found out they they do close down in the middle of the night. I had several hours to kill, without internet. This is really going to mess up my sleep schedule!! Bummer. I must say this is the most difficult flight I’ve taken so far this trip. Plus, I didn’t sleep for more than half an hour incriments, and only a few for that matter while in Mumbai. Anyway, I experienced more thorough security checks while transferring in India than I have ever experience anywhere else!

Koh Kradan

On route to Krabi, I successfully flagged down a taxi and got to the right airport! Priya and I were going to go to breakfast, but I was able to get a hold of Mason, so we skyped! Very exciting ! Once at the airport, I did some “errands;” I stopped by the post office, dropped off post cards, got cash and small bills for while I’m down south and got breakfast, a fruit plate that was amazing because the fruit down here has just been delicious and then a sandwich to throw in a bag for later. I have a long day of traveling ahead of me!
I have not had internet while on Koh Kradan, an island in the Trang Sea on the western coast of Thailand, although I will describe my week there (it doesn’t take much, it was very low key!). Leaving Bangkok, I flew to Krabi where I then took an airport bus to the bus station in town. From there I was the only passenger to get off and was asked where I was going. Trang. I was immediately put on another busride that took 2 hours. Once I arrived in Trang, I took a tuktuk to the minibus station. After waiting an hour, I crammed in an older Toyota van for another hour to get to Koh Muk Pier where I would be taking a long tail to Koh Kradan. I found myself frequently repeating “Kalume Village Koh Kradan” many times in order to ensure I was going to the correct place. It was windy, and the sea choppy. I got splashed by the salt water several times. Then sun was going down and when we arrived on Koh Kradan we were at Paradise Lost Resort. Wrong place. No one was around and I ran up and down the beach to see if there was somehwere else. The driver was texting on his phone and I gave him the number of Kalume Village. He called, and we put my backpacks back onto the boat and headed down the beach. I arrived at Kalume Village where there were 3 Thai people there. The person who I was supposed to meet had left and was coming by the following day. I ate a silent meal, listening to small Thai conversation before finding myself in bed when the generator was turned off. I stayed in a bamboo hut, 25 strides from the beach, with a hammock on the front porch that looked out at the turquoise water. Not bad! I woke up in the mornings to take walks on the beach, swim, and then kill time by reading “Me Talk Pretty One Day,” by David Sedaris, doing Sudoku puzzles and studying Hindi. I had a lot of Jackie time, which I didn’t quite know what to do with. The owners did come the following day, but were working on figuring out restoration projects due to the last storm, and left that night to come back the following day. I did get awesome pictures, quite a nice shell collection, and some fairly prominent tanlines while on my own. Before the owners arrived to stay for good, I had silent meals with the Thai workers who lived on the island for what I presume to be yearround. I did however over the week appreciate the environment I was in, and it was much better once the Italian owners came. Social interaction was possible with people who spoke English! Although they did often have conversations amongst one another, it was nice to be included periodically, and they were so nice! Also, they knew what to do on the island, and I went snorkeling on the reef just off the beach, and hiked to the other side of the island to Sunset Beach where waves crashed in like off the Pacific Coast, and there was a boulder with really a ladder that I went to the top of. During the week, I ate fresh seafood everyday. From crab, various types of fish, to squid and calamari. The cook there was spectacular. I was going to go to Rai Leh, an area with great climbing, but decided against it because I did not want to get stranded and would be terribly disappointed if I was not able to climb. It is the rainy season techincally, and I didn’t know how the weather had been a little north. Another reason to come back to Thailand, besides enjoying their beautiful beaches and food. I had a flight to catch on Saturday, and the owners were going to the mainland, Pak Meng, Friday night for a friend’s birthday party which I was invited to. I went knowning that they would be able to set me the right direction in the morning to catch my afternoon flight, and I was at least on the mainland, so I cut out at least an hour of transport time. Also it was great because even though I paid for the place to stay for the night, I saved massive on transport because I went with a group of people to the mainland. So really, everything is working out about the same! I got too much money out before I left for Krabi, but I’ll just exchange it in Nepal. I figured better to have too much than not enough!

Pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/allen.jackiem/KohKradan?authkey=Gv1sRgCLKynrS6kp2W6QE&feat=directlink

the internet I am using is being slow, so I will update the pictures once I'm in Nepal or the airport

Bangkok!

I've made it to Thailand! Although I did not end up staying with Michaela's family, I had arranged to stay the weekend with Priya, a girl about my age who moved here from the states and is interning with the UN and teaches piano, that I found on couchsurfing. Which, has been great and I'm so happy how things have worked out!

When I got in on Friday night, I successfully made got from the airport to Priya's apartment in the Ari area, where her neighbors were having a BBQ by the poolside. After more people showed up, many of which were friends and co-workers working for UNESCO, we decided to go to a local-ish Thai bar across the city, Parking Toys, where there was live music being played. Very cool atmosphere, different, but I really like it! The best of the two bands was certainly the ska band! Afterwards, we decided to go to Wong's, another bar closer in town that plays old 80's and early 90's music videos on the TV and is one of the few establishments where you can smoke inside (although it is illegal here too). After being there for a while I was sticking with Tristan, Priya's neighbor and coworker at the UN, to get home because she had to work in the morning and didn't go out, we left the bar at 4! Talk about a long day!

Saturday I woke up at 9:30 and bought my ticket to fly down to Krabi on Monday and back on Saturday to catch my flight to Kathmandu. Then I decided to get some sightseeing done. I took the BTS Skytrain to where I could get off for the pier for the Chao Phraya River Express boat to go towards the Grand Palace and where many temples are. It was really cool to travel by river to get to where I was going! I got off at the Tien Pier, walked through the Tien Market to find the Grand Palace in front of me, Wat Arum behind me and Wat Pho in front of me. I walked inside, wandered around, taking lots of pictures, and took of my shoes as I entered the temple to see the largest reclining Buddah. I left, walked around, with the intention of going to the Grand Palace, but got picked up my a tuktuk driver to go see the Laughing Buddah, drive by the Chitralada Palace, explored the Wat Benchamaborphit, went in to a tailor to see the silks and outfits they make and ended up back at the Grand Palace. Unfortunately, it was 3:30, and it was closed! So, I indulged in some street food, chicken skweres! However, I did feel rather Buddaha-ed out. I got back on the river boat and went to Khao San Road, an area known for backpackers, shopping and food. I saw Phra Summer Fort first and then explored Khao San Road and bought a couple shirts. I just couldn't bring myself to buy any trinkets because they will take up too much room, and really, I don't know who would necessarily want them. However, everything is so cheap I feel like I should. We will see, I feel like I'd rather get those types of things from Nepal or India. I headed back via taxi, where we got stuck in traffic, to take a shower and took the BTS to a housewarming/dinner party of one of Priya's friends, where there was also going to be other couchsurfers! It was great! So much fun, so many great conversations, nice people, excellent food and recommendations. I also met one of the owners of the resort on Koh Kradan, near Krabi, where I was going to couchsurf for the week. Such a great guy! Turns out he will be there next week, and another couchsurfer from Australia may go down as well! Anyway, turned into another late night, only until 2 this time before we taxied home. I feel asleep to the sound of rain and thunder.

Sunday morning I slept in! Very much needed! I took a dip in the pool and then decided to head over towards the Chutuchak Park and Market. After walking around the park first, I found myself encompassed with a sea over tents and goods. Any and everything you wanted was there. And so inexpensive! I can see why people come to Thailand to shop. Unfortunately, I am being a backpacker at the moment and had to keep my Western consumer habits at a minimum. I did end up with great gifts, or at least I think so! I did give in to a couple things for myself too... Again enjoyed some street skewers, and also had a 'detox' smoothie! Delicious. Afterwards I headed back over towards Priya's place, but then remembered about Lumphini Park and the King Rama statue there that I hadn't taken a picture of yet. Although it was getting dark I headed over there before heading back to unload everything. Then Priya and I went out to dinner :)! We had a papaya salad and sticky rice! We ate "thai" style via hand. There was also mint, cabbage and green beans on the side that we dipped in a very tasty, but spicy red sauce. Over dinner it started pouring! It gave me a whole new idea of what it means when one says, "when it rains, it pours." As a matter of fact, the streets were flooding and we had to take a tuk tuk home! Then I started to pack, update this, and upload pictures!

Bangkok pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/allen.jackiem/Bangkok?authkey=Gv1sRgCJORjuPe66vJ8AE&feat=directlink

CHINA

I have been unable to post while in China due to government restrictions on websites, including the one where I post. However, I did keep a journal of what I was up to that you can find below. I find it ironic, but rather appropriate that this post is so large considering it depicts my time in China! Picture links are at the bottom!

En route

I made it to Shanghai! Even after my close call with catching the flight due to detours and road closures in Auckland when Mason was driving to drop me off, after the day flight delay and difficulties checking in. The spare day in Auckland ended up being a little stressful because I had to call the airlines again because my connection from Shanghai to Beijing had not been changed. Additionally, I felt like things were falling apart, but now that I am en route I anticipate the best and hope that what happened in Auckland will be my only flight mishap. Regardless, I watched a movie and then slept as much as I could so I could get onto Chinese time since there is a 5 hour difference from New Zealand. Good news, I think I’m doing alright! However, I did just stand in line for a half an hour to check in for my connection to Beijing, and apparently I was too early and am now just sitting around. I am planning on using this layover time the same as I did in Vancouver, and study Hindi!

Beijing

When I got into Beijing on Saturday, I had so much stress relief because we arranged for me to get a ticket to Bangkok, and I got confirmation for where I will be staying, thank goodness! That night we walked around Houhai, a popular nightlife area surrounding a lake with a lot of passenger boats. Heading over to the Beijing Language and Cultural University we went to a restaurant on campus with notably the best lamb in Beijing. It was amazing! Following that we went into an area that is very reminiscent for Nathan of China called Wudaokou where we walked up to an outside table and sat down to have a beer. I was in long shorts and a tank top at 11 and felt completely comfortable. Very different from New Zealand!

Sunday was an action packed day of sightseeing around Beijing. I will say that I rode nearly every form of public transport, with the exception of three wheeled bikes. My expereinces covered riding in several taxis, a bus, and all 7 subway lines that operate in the city. It was a long day, 7-10:30, but completely worth it! Sunday morning, we woke up early to go to the Temple of Heaven because in the mornings a lot of elder Chinese go there to work out, dance, stretch, play music or games. It was a really interesting atmosphere, what I thought of as a lot of people, although according to Nathan it was really not crowded. I even got to try a Chinese yoyo with instruction from a man! The temples themselves were beautiful. Very typical of what I think of in China though with lots of ornate details (in paintings and carvings), red and gold, curved roofs, and lions and dragons. Nevertheless, its amazing to see in person. Afterwards we went to the Red Pearl Market, a notoriously famous market to get pearls and counterfiet goods. It was 6 floors high, packed with vendors. Afterwards we made it back towards our hotel in order to eat, and have my airplane ticket delievered; which is such a weird concept, but that’s how it happens around here! Following lunch we headed off towards Tiannamen Square, which really wasn’t that interesting to photograph, but at least I can say I’ve been there due to its historical significance! Following that we went to Zhongshan Park, an area with beautiful gardens and classic Chinese architecture. Then we made it into the Forbidden City, or the Imperial Palace, which is gargantuan. There are eight gates, with seven immense courtyards seperating them. All of which was packed with people. However, some of the best pictures I got! Also, throughout the ‘city’ were many famous sculptures I was able to get pictures of as well. These included a dragons, cauldrons, a sundial, duck, etc. Then of course there was the garden, which was exquisite! Exiting the Forbidden City we crossed the street to enter Jingshan Park where after climbing many stairs, there was a large temple with a buddah in the center and the best view of Beijing. Of course there was limited visability due to the smog, however, it was spectacular to get an idea for the layout of the city. Keeping an eye on the sun, we decided to head over to the Summer Palace where there are famous ruins, and beautiful gardens. Again, awesome pictures and a very interesting place to walk around. After dinner, we went to an electronic sales store, Zhongguancun, which was 12 floors, which had any and every electronic you could ever think of. There were complete floors dedicated to cameras, televisions, repairs, everything. Rather than buying computers, you buy the parts and the salesmen put together your computer for you right away. To finish off the day we went to the Olympic Stadiums, the Birdsnest and Water Cube, to grab some photos and walk around. There were so many people around! Turns out the city has turned it into a park, which by the looks of it, is widely popular. Very fun and fulfilling day.

I know I am a place in the world with one of the longest histories, but it blows my mind how much significance so many things have!

Monday was the day that we ventured out to the Mutianyu area of the Great Wall. Very touristy, but being my first time in China, I of course wanted to go! Mutianyu isn’t the closest sight available from Beijing, it is 2 ½ hours away, but according to Nathan, much better! On our way up there we had a bit of a bus fiasco, because apparently the numbers on buses don’t necessarily correlate with where they go. You have to look at the cities posted on front in addition. We were told to get off and grab a taxi because it’d be faster. Then we were told to catch the 936. We were told several different places of where the stop was. The interesting thing in China is that it is really easy for people to be confident in what they are tellingyou, although it is easy to get completely different advice for directions from different people. Regardless, we ended up getting a taxi that dropped us off for what I anticipate to be my favorite lunch here in China. It was a fish restaurant that raised fish in a confined pond where you could try and catch your own fish before they cooked it for you. So tasty! They way we had it prepared is called spicy fish, and it was delicious! After that we found a 936 bus stop and waited to get a ride up to the Great Wall although we were only 3k away. Getting there we took the cable car, rather than doing the 2 hours hike, to get to the wall, then walked until we reached a sign reading “No Admittance.” However, there were people past it, and it was due to the fact that full restoration was not complete past that point. We walked past, and ended up getting to an area that was less restored than before, Farther, we saw workers who were laying fresh concrete between the rocks. Passing them we reached areas of an unrestored Great Wall. The former 10-12ft pathway not only was overgrown, but the 3 ½ ft. barrier marking the edges was completely crumbled. It was so amazing to see! I felt unique J Heading down we made the trip back to Beijing and met up with Nathan’s host family because they had our plane tickets to Hangzhou. They ended up treating us to dinner at a famous restaurant for Peking Duck. It was such a great atmosphere with preformances that went on during our meal. These included a women who spun a vase, table and balance girls on her feet while on her back, a puppet show, a song, a changing mask man, and a song. Going home, we started to get ready to pack and get things in order to fly out the next morning.

Hangzhou

Getting to the airport on Tuesday we were informed that our plane was delayed an hour and a half, so we enjoyed a meal in the airport, as well as sitting around a bit so I was able to update this! The flight was short and easy. Arriving, we looked for a hotel that we had contact information for. We tried to grab a cab, but the driver told us we may as well walk because it was 2 blocks away. It is so humid! Much more than in Beijing. We end up walking past the hotel because the numbering on the streets does not make sense! We check in and look online to create a list of things we want to do while in town. The sun is still up, it’s before dinner, and we decide to grab a taxi to Xixi Wetlands, a popular tourist attraction and national park. We get dropped off and are told by men sitting on the street corner that it is closed. We walk towards the security guard who lets us walk through. The area is gorgeous! There is natural bamboo lining the stone pathway and we lead ourselves towards various Buddhist temples and a pagoda that gives a great view of the park. The temples were closed, but the lack of people was great. With the sun down we go to find dinner, which took a little bit longer than expected because people suggested different things, we ended up at a seafood place that we prefered not to eat at, although the atmosphere was great. We ended up at a Hong Kong restaurant ordering too much food. We head back to the hotel for a good nights rest.

Wednesday morning we wake up and head over to the West Lake, the main attraction of the city. It is also the area on the back of the 1RMB bill. It is a huge lake, with boats and an island in the middle. Much more impressive than Greenlake if you are thinking. Through the smog we see a temple high on the hillside, in addition to a couple pagodas. Walking around the lake, feeling absolutely sticky due to the humdity, passing vendors and men wanting to take us on their boats, we had already decided to walk to the temple we saw in the distance. We pass many gazebos on the water, and even a temple, King Qian if I remember correctly. It is decided that we should always have a water bottle in our hand. Hydrate! We get directions and find ourselves at the gate of a large park, also Mount Wu, and pay the entrance fee. We climb the steps surrounded by forests to find an impressive Buddhist temple. We walk to the Chenghuang Pagoda to find a full wall size wood carvings painted. There is also a two story stone etching. Absolutely beautiful! Heading to the 5^th floor, out of 7 because the top two are under construction, we find amazing views of the park with the West Lake in the background. The city is to the east, hills to the west and the Qiantang river to the south. Too bad for the smog, otherwise the pictures would be so much more impressive! Again seeing a building in the distance we make our way across the park and find ourselves there. Impressive views of the temple we just came from. We grab lunch at a reccommended restaurant and get food common in the south. Delicious! We get back to the hotel, Nathan goes to the university to talk with a professor, and I get a full body massage! Very relaxing and my muscles were very happy with me. We get back to the hotel at about the same time and decide to finally get hot pot, another classic chinese food that is eaten throughout the country, although spiced differently depending on where you go. Very cool! There was a cutout in the center of the table where a pot was placed on top of a heater in order to heat the water. Then you order raw meat and vegetables and when they arrive, you drop them in the water. Once they are done you take them out and dip them in a peanut sauce.

Thursday was the day that most prominently taken up by my banking fiasco. We still don’t know what was wrong exactly, but I finally ended up being able to get money out- which was bizarre and we don’t understand, because I was able to do ATM withdrawls in Beijing. I had been working up a tab with Nathan but was able to pay it off by the end of the day. However, in between that I still got the opportunity to do some sightseeing. Nathan had to go to the university again, so he wrote me a note that would be sufficient for a cab driver to get me back to the hotel. I taxied over to the zoo, alone, and went to see pandas! The zoo really wasn’t that exciting, but it was weird to see deer and sheep in one. I successfully taxied back and made some skype calls. It was a tearjerker realizeing that I my family was all together for my brother’s birthday and that this was prety much the first holiday/celebration I have missed. How things change as you get older! Weird, and I don’t know if I like it. However, it did make me realize how I should prioritize things in the future. When Nathan got back, we went in search of a market so I could buy Jake a shirt. After directions from several people of, just 2 blocks farther, we found it. Lucky too because a rainstorm was coming through. I found two shirts, very representative of the ridiculous things that are on shirts in China, and bought them in the largest sizes available. Remembering about the water bus on the canal we taxied over just in time to make it. It was great! My favorite part about being on the canal was the artwork under the bridges. Afterwards we headed over towards the West Lake again so we could see it at night. We grabbed dinner at a Brazilian buffet, in China, yes, with preformances and all. Then we made an effort to walk to the area on the West Lake that is on the back of the 1RMB. We walked halfway around the lake, as thunder and lightening began to start in search of the view. As it started raining we walked into a teahouse to ask where it was. Turns out it was on the other side of the lake! We should have walked to other direction from dinner. Ohh well! We though about going in the morning, but after waking up a little late, decided against it and I just packed for the airport.

Friday I got to the airport two and hours ahead of time to ensure I could get through security because I have a layover in Hong Kong, but I sat around updating this instead because check-in didn’t start until an hour and a half before. Ohh well! We probably could have ventured out this morning, but I would much rather be safe than sorry. Also, flight was delayed a chalf an hour. Then once we boarded, we were informed that we may be delayed for another hour. Thank goodness I have a longer layover in Hong Kong, or else this would be very stressful. I feel like all Asian flights are delayed!

Beijing pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/allen.jackiem/Beijing?authkey=Gv1sRgCIDziL_wovefvwE&feat=directlink

Hangzhou pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/allen.jackiem/Hangzhou?authkey=Gv1sRgCOfL39T50Z2jeQ&feat=directlink

Travel Mishap

Long story short, I am spending an extra day in Auckland; which, I have mixed feelings about because Mason is on an all day fieldtrip. So much for getting to spend extra time with him! Also, this makes it so I don't know if I will be able to go to Taishan area with Nathan because the train tickets we did have, we will miss because I will still be en route to Beijing. We will see what happens! The problem is short notice, so I hope that we can get another set of tickets. I also need to change my airline ticket into Bangkok now so I have a week in China. Man ohh man! Things to do! I spent four hours on the phone yesterday with airlines, I hope its not nearly that long today, although it will be what it will be. Frustrating! Good news: I woke up an got a pie and am now drinking an aloe beverage--soo tasty!

Waiheke and Rangitoto Islands

So the last couple days here in Auckland I have been able to finally get out on the ferries to a couple of the nearby islands. Waiheke is well known for its wine, and Mason and I spent the day going to three wineries (Copper Bay, Mudbrick and Stoney Ridge) and grabbing lunch over there at one of the few small cafes. While at Stoney Ridge it was awesome because the owner ended up coming by asking where we were from, how things were going and we were able to get her insight as to the excitement and anticipation involved in being a winemaker. It was sunny, but I can certainly understand how much more enjoyable it could be during the summer. Additionally, more wineries would be open for tasting, although this is true for later in the week and weekends as well though. The following day I spent a day exploring Rangitoto, a 600 year old island/volcano. There is nothing on the island despite a road and trails although it was sparsely populated during the 1920s and 1930s. For instance, persons traveling to the island must bring their own food and water. It was really fun hiking around, and the walkways were very conducive to running, sooo I did a bit of that as well :)

Pictures available here: http://picasaweb.google.com/allen.jackiem/NewZealand3?authkey=Gv1sRgCK6uxLKA0eHfpgE&feat=directlink

Back from Cape Reinga

So after spending another day wandering around Auckland, where I got some really great perspectives on the city along the water (see pictures!), Mason and I headed out north for the weekend. That day actually, I had a great little converstaion with an older sailor who had just come in from his dinghy to stretch his legs and walk around. I love how friendly kiwis are! Back to the roadtrip rundown: our primary stops were to be the Bay of Islands and Cape Reinga. I had read about these famous toilets designed by Austrian artists Hundertwasser that were in Kawakawa and made us stop even though it was dark (winter here, we only have daylight until 6!). I must admit, the most ornate and artistic restroom I have ever been in! From there we found a campground around Paihia. In the morning we thought about taking a ferry to one of the nearby islands, but decided that if we had our own watercraft and more time, it would be more fun. So we went to the Hawara Falls trailhead where we took an 90 minute trail each way to see a baby falls. Again, a very pretty walk, with a very different feel and pattern of vegetation. There were these habitats called mangroves that we walked through that reminded me of a wetland, but more specialized and unique I suppose you could say to the area. Anyway! On our way our of the Bay of Islands we stopped by this local and recycled bead studio that was in a couple's home. We bought some glass beads and were given warnings about the north end of the island. As a result, we drove around for much longer than expected in order to find somewhere to sleep because we did not want to wake up to robbery to beatings by staying at the very north. Everything was great though and we made it to Cape Reinga and its lighthouse the following morning. I witnessed by 2nd viewing of very large bodies of water meeting. Such an amazing thing to see! First was in South Africa seeing the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet, and this as my second seeing the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet! It is incredible to see the different colors and wave patterns, and then the clash of the waters. Then it was a long car ride back to watch the Hangover before heading to bed! (Which is such a hilarious movie, by the way!) I intended to go to Rangitoto Island today, but the ferry I wanted to take wasn't running due to the winds, so I am planning to go tomorrow so I will have time to go to the summit, and also hike to the lava caves! Time is winding down in Auckland, but I think I have explored the North Island rather well :) Nevertheless, there are so many things I'd like to see and do on another trip!

Also, planning regarding China is reaching finalization and it looks like I will be spending a day in Beijing, going out to Mt. Tai in the Taishan area, then back to Beijing to explore before heading down south to the beautiful area of Hangzhou and back to Beijing for my flight to Bangkok. Yay!

Pictures can be viewed here: http://picasaweb.google.com/allen.jackiem/NewZealand2?authkey=Gv1sRgCJmsntC7seLNlQE&feat=directlink

Wellington Roadtrip

Yesterday concluded our five day roadtrip to the south of the north island and back up! I saw a LOT of sheep, cows and farmland, to say the least, and ate out too much! However, there were highlights that I'd like to mention: stopping in Hamilton and getting an amazing wool and recycled fabric hooded pullover that I adore from an outdoor store called Kathmandu (which only reminds me how excited I am to go to Nepal!) Going to the lookout point on Mt. Victoria in Wellington where there was not only a commanding view of the city, but also if you looked due south, the next piece of land one would hit would be Antartica! Also seeing the capital buildings in the city and the boathouse! All very classy. Going to a beach just east of Kapiti Island and finding flattened and smoothed shells thanks to the currents of the ocean (they are awesome and I plan to give them as good luck charms!) Stopping at a black sand beach near Wanganui! Must admit, I didn't really realize that they existed, so it was really cool to see. This is also where I saw one of the most beautiful night skies I must have ever viewed, and saw my first invasive aussie possum. I phrase it as such because the possums in NZ were brought over from Austrailia for the fur trade, but have become a very problematic and invasive species. There are over 70million in NZ, and they are considered open game year round. The government will send you money when you send in pelts apparently. Back to highlights: hiking and staying in a hut on Mt. Egmont, also known as Mt. Taranaki. The wilderness or "bush" out here is so much different than from back home! Its a completely densely packed jungle. I have never seen anything like it. Additionally, there were a few ladders on the trail! Very cool :) Also something I've never seen is the way the national park around Taranaki works out. There is a circle around the mountain and when you leave the bush it turns straight into farmland again. On maps its pretty weird to see. Typically I feel like there isn't much of a difference between national park and the surrounding area, whereas in this particular case it is as clear as black and white. All in all, a very successful trip if I do say so myself :) Now I'm going to do some laundry and look into planning our trip up north for this upcoming weekend! Then depending on how long I spend doing that, I will go down to the waterfront and take a ferry to one of the nearby islands until Mason gets back from class. Living the easy life down here in kiwi land for sure. I'm loving it!

Check out pictures here: http://picasaweb.google.com/allen.jackiem/NewZealand?authkey=Gv1sRgCL-Euuuk3NbPjAE&feat=directlink

So far in NZ

New Zealand has been awesome so far! Mason and I have already planned out the two trips we are going to take over the weekends that I am here: road tripping south to Wellington borrowing Lance’s car and then also heading to the very north of the north island!

First day I was here I really wasn’t jetlagged because I slept a lot on the plane on the way over here so I was able to unpack and then Mason and I went to Albert Park, and had a pretty lazy day. In the evening, we walked with a few people over to Mount Eden for sunset. Which, by the way, has a HUGE crater on the top! It was such a nice day, but then of course right before we started to head down it began to sprinkle. Ohh well! Came back, made dinner. Spectacular. I did however wake up at 4am, but was able to get back to sleep- thank goodness!

Yesterday I had the opportunity to explore Auckland since Mason had class for the greater proportion of the day. I made it to three parks, Myers, Victoria and Albert. I also went to an art gallery where the work of a New Zealand artist, Rita Angus was on display. She did a lot of portraits, but there was some abstract pieces as well as landscapes that I really liked. After picking up a few souvenirs, I wandered down to the waterfront where I was planning to take a ferry to one of the islands nearby, but instead spent my time walking down Prince’s Wharf, and then going to the National Maritime Museum- which was really cool! Inside there was even an Olympic 8 which I of course got pictures of J! Then I walked down along the waterfront to where the grocery store was and picked up some food and made it back in time to catch Mason before going to the gym where we climbed a bit and did some abs! The way they set routes down here is so different! They have a pretty extensive coding system, ie: NNF, no natural features, MS, match start, NNFF, natural features for feet only, NNFH only natural features for hands, SS, sitting start. Moral of the story, you’d see a route and it was annoying to figure out what the heck you were supposed to do, soooo we pretty much just played add-on! Then came back, made dinner, and stayed around the student apartments with flat mates, friends and such.

Today I’m off to explore the domain and see the War Memorial Museum, go to One Tree Hill, and then make it back in order to make dinner, go out and grab drinks! Packing somewhere in between since we are driving down to Wellington tomorrow morning!

Mailing Address

In case anyone is so inclined to mail me anything, the address where I will be able to accept things is below:

Ashish Arora C/o Mr. Jagtar Singh
Hydel Gate, Kathgodam Dist. Nainital
Pin code 263126 Uttarakhand India
For: YOUR NAME, c/o Keith Goyden, UW Program

Fore warning, first class mail typically takes 2-3 weeks to arrive and I will be at this address until December 13th.

Well, got to get going this morning to finish packing and get ready to head out to the airport in a few hours! Auckland here I come!

Moving Day!

So it's my sister Jennifer's 25th birthday today! However, it was also my last day of work at good ol' Emerald City Smoothie as well as moving day! I was pretty much all packed and my brother, Jacob, and his friend Hunter helped me move all my things into storage at my parents house for when I'm away. Weird! I packed my traveling backpack last night to see how I'm doing on space and, good news; I am going to be able to do it! Pack for all seasons in my hiking backpack and a carry-on backpack- can I say ultra minimalist?! That includes by rock climbing shoes, harness, a 10 degree sleeping bag and computer :) haha. Sorry, I'm at least impressed, I have a broad range to pack for, and things typically other individuals would not have to worry about. Anyway, tomorrow I will run by Mason's parent's house to grab a few things for him, head back home to meet up with my mom to go to the Kenny Chesney concert! Not to mention hanging out with family and friends I won't see until January likely. Lots of great things before I leave on Sunday! Then off to Auckland and the start of my adventure and travels... so ecstatic!

Getting in Shape

I climbed Mt. Baker over the weekend. First glacier travel summit at 10,778 ft! About 750ft. higher than I was last weekend at Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier. Very exciting! Now I'll have the STP bike ride, and hopefully a summit of Rainier before I leave for some notable training activities before Nepal.

Speaking of climbing, I was reminded of the dangers hearing that my friend was airlifted from Mt. Hood via helicopter and now has a metal rod in his leg. Safety, safety, safety. Unfortunately, despite good conditions, accidents are prone to happen. Especially now that I am exposing myself to more risks on glaciers I only hope that I can avoid one for as long as possible! Especially while abroad...

Also good news, got all my prescriptions for abroad! No getting sick for me :)

Formal Itinerary

Aug 4-Aug 20: New Zealand (mostly Auckland, although I will make it to the South Island)
Aug. 20-Aug 27: Beijing, China
Aug 28-Sept 4: Bangkok, Thailand
Sept 5: Kathmandu, Nepal: Meet up with Brittany and go to Everest basecamp
Sept 24: Arrive in Delhi to meet up with group, within a few days head up to Sotali, Kumaon, Uttarakand where I will be spending most of my time!
Dec 13: Back in Delhi, see Taj Mahal, Golden Temple, among other touristy activities
Dec 21: Fly home from Delhi!

Anticipated Itinerary

New Zealand: August 3-August 18

China: August 18-August 25

Thailand: August 25-September 2

Agra, India: September 3; visit Taj Mahal

Backpack India: September 4-24; climb Trisul? Hike to Nanda Devi? Hike to Everest basecamp? 

New Delhi, India: September 25-28

Sotali, India: September 28-December 13 

Return to Seattle: Variable (whether or not I stay for Dalai Lama teachings)

Holidays and Festivals

There are a few festivals or holidays that will occur while I am abroad that I would like to mention now, although I will post with more details while they are going on.

We arrive in Delhi during the Festival of Dassera, or the 'festival of joy'! It lasts for 10 days, this time is known as  Navaratri, which commemorates the triumph of good over evil. The last day of Navaratri, which falls on September 28th, is what is known as the Festival of Dassera.

October 2nd is Gandhi Jayanti, one of 3 official holidays in India that is celebrated across the country. It marks the birthday of the "Father of the Nation," as we know as Gandhi.

Also, on the new moon of October 14th, Diwali, the 'festival of lights,' is happening as well! This is a 5 day festival that is as important as Christmas for Christians for Hindus. This is an widely recognized Indian holiday due to the religious importance in various religions including: Hinduism, Sikhism, Buddhism and Janism.

Introduction: Program & Location

First of all, I have to say I am absolutely ecstatic to be going on the Environment and Development Program in the Indian Himalayas with 21 other students, Professor Rebecca Klenk, anthropologist from the University of Tennessee, and Keith Goyden, graduate student who has worked directly with the organization where our internships will be. General information about the program can be found here: Program Information

In short, will be staying in the Kumaun foothills of the Himalaya. India is divided into 28 states, which are further divided into districts, blocs, divisions, and villages. Similar to the administrative divisions within the US with our states, counties, then cities. Sonapani, where we are staying is located in the village of Sotali, in the division of Kumaun, in the bloc Nainital in the province of Uttarakhand, formerly Uttaranchal. The elevation of Sotali is about 7000ft. 

Sonapani, literally means golden water (sona=gold, pani=water) although when we are outside of the village, we are strongly encouraged to buy bottled water, despite the adverse environmental effects. Further, the water in Sonapani is filtered. We will be arriving after monsoon season, so we will not suffer from water scarcity; which mostly happens in May/June, before the monsoons. 

We will be taking the railway from Delhi north, then a taxi to where the road ends. From the railhead to Sonapani is 60k (about 40 miles) and 7000ft of elevation gain! From there, it is about a 20 minute walk to Sonapani.

Within Sonapani, we will be staying in 3 person cottages, 14x20ft, with  bathroom, and weekly laundry service. We will have electricity, although only about 70% of the time. Cell phones are common, and I expect to get one. I will also be able to update my blog with the 4 internet modems at Sonapani. GOOD NEWS: If you would like to visit, Sonapani has cottages for about $60 a night, including meals; although there are other housing options as well. However, the connection is terribly slow, so I doubt many pictures will be uploaded until after my trip. Below is a photo of our daily scenery.

From Sonapani, we have an excellent view of the 2nd largest mountain in India, Nanda Devi, and the 23rd highest in the world along the Sanctuary Wall. However, the photo above includes three peaks: Trisul, Nanda Devi, and Devtoli (I believe). Nanda Devi is a sacred peaks that means "Bliss Giving Goddess." It is about 3 days travel from Sotali (which I will be going to the base before the program starts; not climbing for it is forbidden, among many other areas as well! Plans to be posted).

My internship with CHIRAG, Central Himalayan Rural Action Group, is located in Sitla. The organization's methodology is one of integrated rural development of social, natural resource management, training and communication, as well as income generation. From Sonapani to Sitla is 7k (about 4.5miles), which translates to a 20min drive, or over an hour walk- which I plan to do daily! As far as any medical needs while I am there, I am in a great place because the US Embassy refers to CHIRAG as the recommended medical site to go to in this region. More information can be found here: CHIRAG